My Agartala trip has come to an end. Its been a very enjoyable and eventful trip to my hometown, this time round. Few gigs, parties, high-nights, babe-watching (literally), great food, catching up with old friends, and also being a km away or so from the serial bomb blasts that rocked Agartala on 1st Oct.
I went to Agartala after 2 years or more. Usually I try to plan my vacation around Durga Puja, not just because its the happening time, but also that most friends would be either back home or be on leave around this time. I reached Agartala on Sunday afternoon 29th Sept.
First few days spent meeting family and friends, catching up, finding place to have a drink in the evenings (eventually in a departmental shop after the closing hours, the shop-owner being a friend).
It was really nice to see my nephew and niece Shankha and Megha. Megha is one super naughty kid, and I became her punching bag! they would manipulate me easily to give in to their demands. :) Pogo, Hungama, Cartoon Network, Disney channels play a big part in their lives, and when things got out of control (when I couldn’t keep pace with them), TV did the rescue acts.
On 1st October, me and my brother’s family went shopping to the city. We heard a big blast but thought it to be a typical gas cylinder blast, which usually happens with illegal restaurants mushrooming on vacant spaces during Puja. We were sipping on colas when Django called up from Kolkata enquiring. Five blasts happened in 30 mins span all over Agartala. With the extremists’ problem almost nonexistent, I thought this would be one happy puja. But these 'zihadis' have started targeting the tier 2 cities as well to spread panic, and nothing could be better than such small scale blasts to do so! The targeted spots were the main bazaar area and the bigger bus stands! My hatred towards Bangladeshis and the opportunists vote seekers grew by quite a few folds! I was surprised to find out from my friends that a local Al-Queda leader (Mamoon Mia) was caught from a rented house at Ramnagar 4 area, which is along the road that extends almost opposite to my house. Anyway, I will write about this in detail later.
Oh! The moment I arrived at Agartala, I started gorging, and that didn’t stop till the last day. Pork, chicken, duck, fish, veggies, fries .. you name it! And also quite a few social invitations, I had to attend. I look like a "well-fed-cat" now!
Niloy and his band ‘Dabanol’ requested me to play in couple of their gigs. He dumped me with a guitar and some 40 songs to learn in 3/4 days! They are a pretty decent band, but the lack of practice before the shows reflected I guess. I tried to keep things simple and not experimenting too much. The first gig on Saptami day (7th Oct) at ONGC colony, turned out to be decent although the on stage sound was horrendous. (I didn’t hear the guitar or the keyboard). Oh, the next act on that day was a tribal group, who performed traditional dance and music. What an awesome performance it was, totally outclassed us! (although the crowd likening the regular music) .. Niloy and I noted down their numbers, hoping that we could invite them to play with us the next day.
Next day we played at Indranagar club but the crowd was really sad, and didn’t appreciate most of our music, and demanded us to play and repeat the regular songs. Anyway, the sound system was better that previous days’ but awefully mixed and sounded terrible (so I heard later), but that didn’t seem to matter with the crowd! The middle section of the show was really sad, I would say! Anyway, as remuneration for the 2 shows, Dabanol payed me a 2k! I resisted but Niloy wouldn’t listen!
Didn’t get to see much of Puja pandals, because of the gigs, so had to be contented with the pujas around my home area. On 10th, went to Suprio & Swarnali's house for their son's birthday celebration. Most of friends turned up with their families, it was great! 11th Evening, Niloy picked me up for a band-and-roadies feast at a friend's (David) quarter. David is a good bassist and plays for the local "Borok" band. Had a great time with bahan, jamming and white mischief!
Now I am sitting at Kolkata airport waiting for my flight to bangalore .. never realized how time flew!
(written while waiting at Kolkata airport on 12th October, 2008)
Saturday, October 18, 2008
Israel visit
Mid Sept 2008, I went for an engagement to Israel, where our client’s vendor is based out of. Work was hectic and stressful (!!) and I almost got to do nothing else but work. However, I had some great time experimenting with food (all expenses were paid for!) and one day took some time to go and visit Bethlehem and Old Jerusalem.
Jews come to Israel from all over the world and because of this; their culture is open and diverse. People are very warm; they say if you slip on the roads, ten people will run to help you get up and by the time you do get up, they would have found out your name, family, life and your salary.
Their food reflects their varied culture - Mediterranean, European, South American etc. The foodie me was pigging out at every opportunity. The lunch at client’s office was awesome too; everyday 4/5 different types of main courses (meat/fish), accompanied by many salads, breads, rice, desserts, icecreams. Wow! Their cafeteria would put many top Bangalore restaurants to shame. Initially at places, I would ask for Israeli food, which they seemed to be puzzled of, till later I discovered that I would have done better to ask for Jewish food, cause there isn’t anything specific as Israeli food. The hotel would lay out breakfast buffets, and sometimes barbeques and dinner buffets; I would try all different kinds of food. Btw, Aubergine seems very popular, so many different types of preparations; same for sweet potato. Oh, and I think i had some of the best hummas and breads.
Their local beers are nice - Maccabee, Goldstar. I also tried out some very nice Israeli red shiraz (don’t remember the names). Plenty of my favourite Belgium beer as well – Hoegaarden, Duvel. :)
I was staying at Herziliya, at Dan Accadia resort, right next to the beach (although I didn’t make it to the actual beach sand till the very last day!). Very nice hotel - full of rich tourists (senior citizens and lots of pregnant women!!) and many businessmen and bureaucrats (some NATO event was going on)!
Little further down road, one could walk to the Marina, very lively, many pubs, sidewalk restaurants etc. I went to a Brazilian Restaurant one day where they serve 11/12 types of meat. I pigged out and then suffered through the night. (Guess what! we went back there!) There was a live band playing Brazilian music, they were happy to play few of my requests for Bozza Nova.
Israeli music is also influenced by its people coming from all over the world. Tel Aviv is known for classical and jazz. I wouldn’t have made out any difference between music say from “South of France” and what I heard over radio (other than the language). A certain taxi driver, on the way back from office, went to great length to find me some Israeli music changing and checking possibly all radio channels. The night before I travelled back, I met some cool guys at the beach and they played me a band called “Monica Sex” which is probably the most popular band in Israel now. I bought a CD of the band at airport later.
I didn’t learn much of Hebrew – other than Shalom (peace, good morning, goodbye) and “Ga-foo-rim” (matches). In one cafe, I asked for “Ga-foo-rim” and the steward was pleasantly surprised and left me his lighter instead. We were there only for 10 days and didn’t have much chance to do anything other than work (and those pigging out sessions). On 20th, after we got some measure and coverage of work done, I went along with few other colleagues and clients, to Bethlehem and old Jerusalem. A very tourist-y trip but the guide “Emad” was around 55, good rational guy, knowledgeable and with good sense of humour.
The countryside, on the way to Bethlehem and Jerusalem is “green” surprisingly. Supposedly Ben Gurion, Israel first Prime Minister, set out a task of creating a green field that would demarcate Israel from its neighbours. They figured out a way for irrigation out of salt water, which they would transfer through pipes and also invented the “drip irrigation” technique which is now used everywhere. By the side of the road, there are orange fields, vineyards etc. Israeli oranges are very nice and supposedly exported to Europe first, where changing of labels are done and sold to Arab countries. :)
First we went to Bethlehem, which is in Palestine. A change of guide happened at the border and we went to see the “Church of Nativity”, Jesus Christ’s birthplace. The different sects keep arguing over exactly the spot Jesus was born (2 meter distance apart).
Later, back in Israel, we went to Gethsemane at the foot of “Mount of Olives”, and also saw the “Church of all nations”. Emad would tell us the stories and then leave us on our own to explore, and take pictures.
The temple mount (above) is contested as one of the religious sites in the world. In Judaism, it is believed that this is here that world expanded into its present form, and this is the place where God gathered the dust, which he used to create the first man, Adam! According to Islam, the site is thought to be location of Prophet Muhammed’s ascent to heaven. Both Israel and Palestine authorities claim sovereignty over the site, and a major issue of Israel-Arab conflict!
Later, in old Jerusalem, we went on foot. First Emad took us to nice cosy restaurants by “the wall”, for lunch in one of the narrow streets of Jerusalem.
We went walking through the narrow streets, which seemed like typical Indian bazaar street; colourful, lively, sit-out restaurants in busy streets, smelling of fresh bread and kebabs. I would have so loved to just walk around lazily; and I was often falling back, getting lost from the group! I so don’t like group ‘tourism’!
Walking through the Jewish, Muslim and Christian quarters, we went to see the “Holy Sepulchre Church”, place where supposedly Jesus was buried, although the Protestants think of a different place and reasoning based on logic! 6 different sects of Christianity have their churches under the same roof. The Church is now controlled by Cops and there is now strict regimen of opening and closing of church with the high priests of each sect keeping daily vigil if anything ever were noticed different. Supposedly before Easter, fights between different sects often break out, on differences of who would take the light to the cave first. A ladder on the outside wall of the church denotes the “Status quo” between different sects.
We saw the stone slab which was supposedly used to carry Jesus after his disciples got him down from the cross; the nail below is supposedly from the same crucifix – Christians consider this as the “center of the world”.
I am not really an atheist, and generally like to think that even if God do exist, he must have thousands of things to do than to pay attention to me, and have never tried to reason with Faith or religion, simply because one can’t! But its humbling to see such emotions, people in sort of rage, crying, beating themselves.
Later we went to see the one of the holiest place for the Jews, “the Wailing Wall”. Photograph is not allowed there and although Emad did take us to a place far up and away, where I could take some nice snaps, I decided not to upload the pics anyway (I don’t want Mossad to be after me!).
We went through more churches, temples in Jerusalem before calling it a day. On the way back to Herziliya, Emad took us to “an American Shrine” (as he described it) for some coffee/coolers.
The owner is a major Elvis Presley fan, and everything in that restaurant and around has got Elvis something, pictures/posters, statues, food menu – Elvis’ fav cuisine. Who would expect this so far away from Memphis!
You can feel the sense of security everywhere. In airport, I had to answer a hundred questions, been spoken to in Arabic to check my reactions, in spite of having security clearance from the Israeli Firm. I guess they have to. The whole country seems ready at any point of time. Every building has armed security guards. The security guards at Airport seemed like ready to spring – for example – pretty security girl at airport, with formal shirt rolled up to the sleeves, tie loosened, formal trouser worn over military boots, bulges suggesting hidden arms rather than feminism.
Girls are pretty and liberal, so it seemed, at least in Herzliya or Ra’anana (at office).
Well, that it! I didn’t see anything of Tel Aviv, or Dead sea, or Jaffa or Nazareth. Hope someday, I will have the opportunity again.
Jews come to Israel from all over the world and because of this; their culture is open and diverse. People are very warm; they say if you slip on the roads, ten people will run to help you get up and by the time you do get up, they would have found out your name, family, life and your salary.
Their food reflects their varied culture - Mediterranean, European, South American etc. The foodie me was pigging out at every opportunity. The lunch at client’s office was awesome too; everyday 4/5 different types of main courses (meat/fish), accompanied by many salads, breads, rice, desserts, icecreams. Wow! Their cafeteria would put many top Bangalore restaurants to shame. Initially at places, I would ask for Israeli food, which they seemed to be puzzled of, till later I discovered that I would have done better to ask for Jewish food, cause there isn’t anything specific as Israeli food. The hotel would lay out breakfast buffets, and sometimes barbeques and dinner buffets; I would try all different kinds of food. Btw, Aubergine seems very popular, so many different types of preparations; same for sweet potato. Oh, and I think i had some of the best hummas and breads.
Their local beers are nice - Maccabee, Goldstar. I also tried out some very nice Israeli red shiraz (don’t remember the names). Plenty of my favourite Belgium beer as well – Hoegaarden, Duvel. :)
I was staying at Herziliya, at Dan Accadia resort, right next to the beach (although I didn’t make it to the actual beach sand till the very last day!). Very nice hotel - full of rich tourists (senior citizens and lots of pregnant women!!) and many businessmen and bureaucrats (some NATO event was going on)!
 |
Little further down road, one could walk to the Marina, very lively, many pubs, sidewalk restaurants etc. I went to a Brazilian Restaurant one day where they serve 11/12 types of meat. I pigged out and then suffered through the night. (Guess what! we went back there!) There was a live band playing Brazilian music, they were happy to play few of my requests for Bozza Nova.
 |
Israeli music is also influenced by its people coming from all over the world. Tel Aviv is known for classical and jazz. I wouldn’t have made out any difference between music say from “South of France” and what I heard over radio (other than the language). A certain taxi driver, on the way back from office, went to great length to find me some Israeli music changing and checking possibly all radio channels. The night before I travelled back, I met some cool guys at the beach and they played me a band called “Monica Sex” which is probably the most popular band in Israel now. I bought a CD of the band at airport later.
I didn’t learn much of Hebrew – other than Shalom (peace, good morning, goodbye) and “Ga-foo-rim” (matches). In one cafe, I asked for “Ga-foo-rim” and the steward was pleasantly surprised and left me his lighter instead. We were there only for 10 days and didn’t have much chance to do anything other than work (and those pigging out sessions). On 20th, after we got some measure and coverage of work done, I went along with few other colleagues and clients, to Bethlehem and old Jerusalem. A very tourist-y trip but the guide “Emad” was around 55, good rational guy, knowledgeable and with good sense of humour.
The countryside, on the way to Bethlehem and Jerusalem is “green” surprisingly. Supposedly Ben Gurion, Israel first Prime Minister, set out a task of creating a green field that would demarcate Israel from its neighbours. They figured out a way for irrigation out of salt water, which they would transfer through pipes and also invented the “drip irrigation” technique which is now used everywhere. By the side of the road, there are orange fields, vineyards etc. Israeli oranges are very nice and supposedly exported to Europe first, where changing of labels are done and sold to Arab countries. :)
First we went to Bethlehem, which is in Palestine. A change of guide happened at the border and we went to see the “Church of Nativity”, Jesus Christ’s birthplace. The different sects keep arguing over exactly the spot Jesus was born (2 meter distance apart).
 |
| The Atlar of the Nativity, beneath it is a star marking the spot, where tradition says, Virgin Mary gave birth to Jesus |
 |
| view from Bethlehem |
Later, back in Israel, we went to Gethsemane at the foot of “Mount of Olives”, and also saw the “Church of all nations”. Emad would tell us the stories and then leave us on our own to explore, and take pictures.
 |
| The “Garden of Gethsemane ”, Jesus was supposedly in hiding here; when Judas betrayed and told the guards about his whereabouts. |
 |
| The temple mount |
The temple mount (above) is contested as one of the religious sites in the world. In Judaism, it is believed that this is here that world expanded into its present form, and this is the place where God gathered the dust, which he used to create the first man, Adam! According to Islam, the site is thought to be location of Prophet Muhammed’s ascent to heaven. Both Israel and Palestine authorities claim sovereignty over the site, and a major issue of Israel-Arab conflict!
Later, in old Jerusalem, we went on foot. First Emad took us to nice cosy restaurants by “the wall”, for lunch in one of the narrow streets of Jerusalem.
We went walking through the narrow streets, which seemed like typical Indian bazaar street; colourful, lively, sit-out restaurants in busy streets, smelling of fresh bread and kebabs. I would have so loved to just walk around lazily; and I was often falling back, getting lost from the group! I so don’t like group ‘tourism’!
 |
| A typical street in Old Jerusalem |
Walking through the Jewish, Muslim and Christian quarters, we went to see the “Holy Sepulchre Church”, place where supposedly Jesus was buried, although the Protestants think of a different place and reasoning based on logic! 6 different sects of Christianity have their churches under the same roof. The Church is now controlled by Cops and there is now strict regimen of opening and closing of church with the high priests of each sect keeping daily vigil if anything ever were noticed different. Supposedly before Easter, fights between different sects often break out, on differences of who would take the light to the cave first. A ladder on the outside wall of the church denotes the “Status quo” between different sects.
 |
We saw the stone slab which was supposedly used to carry Jesus after his disciples got him down from the cross; the nail below is supposedly from the same crucifix – Christians consider this as the “center of the world”.
 |
I am not really an atheist, and generally like to think that even if God do exist, he must have thousands of things to do than to pay attention to me, and have never tried to reason with Faith or religion, simply because one can’t! But its humbling to see such emotions, people in sort of rage, crying, beating themselves.
 |
| The Stone of the Anointing |
Later we went to see the one of the holiest place for the Jews, “the Wailing Wall”. Photograph is not allowed there and although Emad did take us to a place far up and away, where I could take some nice snaps, I decided not to upload the pics anyway (I don’t want Mossad to be after me!).
We went through more churches, temples in Jerusalem before calling it a day. On the way back to Herziliya, Emad took us to “an American Shrine” (as he described it) for some coffee/coolers.
 |
| "The American Shrine" |
The owner is a major Elvis Presley fan, and everything in that restaurant and around has got Elvis something, pictures/posters, statues, food menu – Elvis’ fav cuisine. Who would expect this so far away from Memphis!
You can feel the sense of security everywhere. In airport, I had to answer a hundred questions, been spoken to in Arabic to check my reactions, in spite of having security clearance from the Israeli Firm. I guess they have to. The whole country seems ready at any point of time. Every building has armed security guards. The security guards at Airport seemed like ready to spring – for example – pretty security girl at airport, with formal shirt rolled up to the sleeves, tie loosened, formal trouser worn over military boots, bulges suggesting hidden arms rather than feminism.
Girls are pretty and liberal, so it seemed, at least in Herzliya or Ra’anana (at office).
Well, that it! I didn’t see anything of Tel Aviv, or Dead sea, or Jaffa or Nazareth. Hope someday, I will have the opportunity again.
Monday, April 16, 2007
Malabar Coast - August 2005 - Kanyakumari
Well, I found some pieces of paper on which I had scribbled about the last leg of the trip. Not complete by any means, so I am trying to reconstruct whatever I remember. Remember the famous quote? “Like all great travelers I have seen more than I remember and remember more than I have seen”. Ha ha! Anyway, continued from the previous posts ..
14th August, 2005
Woke up early to the crowing of the rooster and set off from Palmgrove. I will surely love to come back to this place someday. Walked long, almost to the jetty, before I got an autorickshaw for the station. Alleppey station is a tiny neat station. I met Auriley there, she was traveling to Kochi and then further north.
As I was still undecided, I bought a ticket till Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) and boarded the next train. Should I drop by at Varkala? Then I should get down at Kollam and take a bus to Varkala. I decided to go to head for Kanyakumari instead. I would go to Trivandrum and take a train to Kanyakumari. The novelty of the thought of being at Kanyakumari, the southern most tip of the mainland, on Independence Day must have influenced the decision. Little did I know of things to come...
Train to Trivandrum took about 3 hours from Alleppey. Found out that the next train to Kanyakumari is at 2:15 pm. It was 11:30 and good couple of hours to kill. Called Sebin, who came and picked me up at the station and we went to a place close by for a quick beer and lunch. Yummy fish curry rice! It was good to meet Sebin after so long, since his Bangalore days. He is now part of the MSG (married and settled group) and has a baby.
Train to Kanyakumari was absolutely empty. Reached just before the sunset and headed straight to sunset point. Sunset was beautiful, its quite something. People say that you can see the colors of the 3 ocean waters (Bay of Bengal, Indian Ocean and Arabian Sea), but there were more colors during the sunset that you can imagine. Awesome but sunset point usually gets swarmed by people, I thought of finding a better and deserted spot along the coast next day.
What followed next was a complete shocker! Autorickshaw driver told me that “single” person was not allowed at all in any hotel. What!! I found it hard to believe! Apparently cops had instructed all hotel owners not to allow any single Indian traveler!!!! What bullshit! Reasons? Never got any valid reasonable answer! Common answers being
- Suicide. Apparently people come here to commit suicide in this holy place. Joint suicide cases are improbable! Single person – yes!
- LTTE. What a stupid stupid reason. One hotel owner even looked at me suspiciously and asked to get “No objection certificate” from the local police station. Never mind that I didn’t speak Tamil or Sinhalese!
- Oh! The rule didn’t apply for single “foreigner”!
Mohit had traveled to Kanyakumari only a few days back, he never mentioned any such thing! Even offering valid, authentic identification in forms of driving license, credit card etc would not help! I went from place to place, and everywhere it’s the same. I had called KTDC kerela house but I was sent back from there as well, albeit having a note from KTDC Kollam. Imagine, 58 years of independence and we are far far away from being free. Isn’t this a clear violation of article 19A of the constitution by which any citizen of India is allowed to travel and stay anywhere in India? After a long days travel, last thing I wanted is to go to the local police station, arguing with cops, (who would haggle for money of course) and having to answer questions where I didn’t need to. Finally found a lodge, courtesy the autorickshaw driver. 250 Rs for the crappiest of a room! Dark, dingy, dirty, no window! What a rat hole! One ventilator of size of a pipe. Gas chamber or what? Less said about the loo/bathroom the better; I shuddered at the thought of taking a bath or a dump there! (But I had to .. )
I needed to find a bar real quick. Thought the best option is to get drunk before returning to the room. Found one, where the captain, Peter, seemed like a nice person. The bar seemed quite popular, assuming from the crowd there, coming for a quick drink! Zig zag lighting decors at the bar counter, playing “I am a Barbie girl” and other songs of AQUA endlessly in a loop! Anyway, better than the permit rooms! They must have paid a lot to Amma to get persmission! Oh! Not to mention, the numero uno drink around this place seemed to be Brandy. They even have “brandy shops” here! Some interesting drink I saw at the menu - MGM vodka, and a cocktail of black grapes with MGM Vodka! MGM vodka is manufactured somewhere in Coimbatore, by “Shivas Regal”. I avoided that!
(However, later in life, I had the opportunity of trying MGM vodka at Masinagudi. That’s a different story)
Interesting glow sign in front of hotels – “Chinese music at bar”! Whatever that meant.
Had a nice Malabar fish curry rice dinner. I was still cribbing and wondering what made a phirang passport valid and an Indian DL invalid for purpose of a room here. Thought Kerela and Goa was pro-phirang in attitude than other states but Kanyakumari is surely changing and not for the better. Would advice all travelers to book by phone in advance.
Oh! Subrato became father of a baby girl today. Would he name her “swadhinata”?
15th August, 2005
I had a horrible night’s sleep. Anyway, got up early to see the sunrise, and that had immediate effect on me. I forgot about all the indifferent behaviors, and the sleepless night and the bed-bugs, I was full of energy! I went walking down the streets about the temples. And all of a sudden decided to go visiting the famous Kanyakumari temple. No, I didn’t have to stand in queue, there were priests wanting to make some quick bucks, who would make all the arrangements like getting flowers and other offerings to the Goddess, avoiding long queues, escorting though the mazes of the temple etc etc. Yeah, moved about bare-chested and did all the “shashtang pranams”. Then I went on to see the Gandhi memorial, the “Bharat Mata” statue. Took a boat to the Vivekananda rock. It was bliss. Looking at both sides the mainland coast from the furthest point (not exactly) evoked some indescribable feelings on day when I think we want to feel bit Indian! I bought Swami Vivekananda’s Chicago speech and set on the steps reading it. It’s a beautiful place, peaceful, the strong wind blowing and the grand views. Atop the adjacent rock, Tamilnadu tourism is building another such memorial for “Tiruvalluvar” and a gigantic statue adorns it.
When I got back to the jetty, I tried to find out about the "medicinal hill". Legend has it that Lord Hanuman carried the “Vindhamadhav parvath” to Lanka, because he didn’t recognize the medicinal plant that was to cure Laxman, after he was stuck down by Indrajeet, Ravana’s son. While Hanuman was carrying the mountain, part of it chipped off and fell somewhere around here and a hill was created. Supposedly there are few caves in the hills where all the “sadhus” stay and it is quite a treacherous trek to the top. The hill is also inhabited by poisonous snakes and insects and it is also supposed to be a medicinal goldmine, which the sadhus can administer. I asked around but none seemed to know about the hill. One person gave some vague direction towards Nagercoil but seemed unconvincing. The tourism department clerk seemed to know none of it (my communication sucked but why would you put someone who doesn't speak english/hindi there?)! I tried calling few of my Tamil friends but none knew about such a place.
(I found out later that it is called “Maruthuvazhmalai” hill and does exist near kanyakumari)
I came back to the hotel and enquired about my bus ticket which I had asked one of the travel agencies to book. I learned that only Tamilnadu state buses were available till Chennai. The thought about spending the night again in the room psyched the hell out of me! The train to Bangalore, Island Express, was leaving in less than 20 mins and all of a sudden, I decided to take it. Took an autorickshaw to the station, but I would not get any reservation, hence was forced to buy a general compartment ticket. It’s a long long journey of 20 hours to Bangalore! All the fatigue seemed to cover me just at the thought of traveling in the unreserved compartment. I got in one of the reserved compartments and found a seat which was meant for someone getting up from Ernakulam, which would only come at 8 pm. It was a long weekend and hoards of people were returning to Bangalore and the train was packed. Soon the usual story of haggling between unrelenting TT and stoic unreserved compartment traveler followed at Trivandrum and beyond. After much pestering, TT took the extra reservation charges and allowed me his seat. No sleeping berth, only a seat to sit on. The benevolent great Indian railways. Later in the night, one railway policeman came and dragged me off my seat, threw my bag onto the floor, and even after showing him the paper which TT had issued to me, refused to allow me my entitled seat, and sat down his fat ass on it and went about snoring. Knowing well that he can easily harass me to no ends, I digested the insult, and sat down at the door. There were many like me, sitting on the floor, and all around. In the morning, when I got down at Bangalore station, just for fun, I told the policeman that I am going to complain to the station master about him, to which he shouted some obscenities to me in Tamil. I gave some back and before he could react, got lost in the crowd.
14th August, 2005
Woke up early to the crowing of the rooster and set off from Palmgrove. I will surely love to come back to this place someday. Walked long, almost to the jetty, before I got an autorickshaw for the station. Alleppey station is a tiny neat station. I met Auriley there, she was traveling to Kochi and then further north.
As I was still undecided, I bought a ticket till Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) and boarded the next train. Should I drop by at Varkala? Then I should get down at Kollam and take a bus to Varkala. I decided to go to head for Kanyakumari instead. I would go to Trivandrum and take a train to Kanyakumari. The novelty of the thought of being at Kanyakumari, the southern most tip of the mainland, on Independence Day must have influenced the decision. Little did I know of things to come...
Train to Trivandrum took about 3 hours from Alleppey. Found out that the next train to Kanyakumari is at 2:15 pm. It was 11:30 and good couple of hours to kill. Called Sebin, who came and picked me up at the station and we went to a place close by for a quick beer and lunch. Yummy fish curry rice! It was good to meet Sebin after so long, since his Bangalore days. He is now part of the MSG (married and settled group) and has a baby.
Train to Kanyakumari was absolutely empty. Reached just before the sunset and headed straight to sunset point. Sunset was beautiful, its quite something. People say that you can see the colors of the 3 ocean waters (Bay of Bengal, Indian Ocean and Arabian Sea), but there were more colors during the sunset that you can imagine. Awesome but sunset point usually gets swarmed by people, I thought of finding a better and deserted spot along the coast next day.
What followed next was a complete shocker! Autorickshaw driver told me that “single” person was not allowed at all in any hotel. What!! I found it hard to believe! Apparently cops had instructed all hotel owners not to allow any single Indian traveler!!!! What bullshit! Reasons? Never got any valid reasonable answer! Common answers being
- Suicide. Apparently people come here to commit suicide in this holy place. Joint suicide cases are improbable! Single person – yes!
- LTTE. What a stupid stupid reason. One hotel owner even looked at me suspiciously and asked to get “No objection certificate” from the local police station. Never mind that I didn’t speak Tamil or Sinhalese!
- Oh! The rule didn’t apply for single “foreigner”!
Mohit had traveled to Kanyakumari only a few days back, he never mentioned any such thing! Even offering valid, authentic identification in forms of driving license, credit card etc would not help! I went from place to place, and everywhere it’s the same. I had called KTDC kerela house but I was sent back from there as well, albeit having a note from KTDC Kollam. Imagine, 58 years of independence and we are far far away from being free. Isn’t this a clear violation of article 19A of the constitution by which any citizen of India is allowed to travel and stay anywhere in India? After a long days travel, last thing I wanted is to go to the local police station, arguing with cops, (who would haggle for money of course) and having to answer questions where I didn’t need to. Finally found a lodge, courtesy the autorickshaw driver. 250 Rs for the crappiest of a room! Dark, dingy, dirty, no window! What a rat hole! One ventilator of size of a pipe. Gas chamber or what? Less said about the loo/bathroom the better; I shuddered at the thought of taking a bath or a dump there! (But I had to .. )
I needed to find a bar real quick. Thought the best option is to get drunk before returning to the room. Found one, where the captain, Peter, seemed like a nice person. The bar seemed quite popular, assuming from the crowd there, coming for a quick drink! Zig zag lighting decors at the bar counter, playing “I am a Barbie girl” and other songs of AQUA endlessly in a loop! Anyway, better than the permit rooms! They must have paid a lot to Amma to get persmission! Oh! Not to mention, the numero uno drink around this place seemed to be Brandy. They even have “brandy shops” here! Some interesting drink I saw at the menu - MGM vodka, and a cocktail of black grapes with MGM Vodka! MGM vodka is manufactured somewhere in Coimbatore, by “Shivas Regal”. I avoided that!
(However, later in life, I had the opportunity of trying MGM vodka at Masinagudi. That’s a different story)
Interesting glow sign in front of hotels – “Chinese music at bar”! Whatever that meant.
Had a nice Malabar fish curry rice dinner. I was still cribbing and wondering what made a phirang passport valid and an Indian DL invalid for purpose of a room here. Thought Kerela and Goa was pro-phirang in attitude than other states but Kanyakumari is surely changing and not for the better. Would advice all travelers to book by phone in advance.
Oh! Subrato became father of a baby girl today. Would he name her “swadhinata”?
15th August, 2005
I had a horrible night’s sleep. Anyway, got up early to see the sunrise, and that had immediate effect on me. I forgot about all the indifferent behaviors, and the sleepless night and the bed-bugs, I was full of energy! I went walking down the streets about the temples. And all of a sudden decided to go visiting the famous Kanyakumari temple. No, I didn’t have to stand in queue, there were priests wanting to make some quick bucks, who would make all the arrangements like getting flowers and other offerings to the Goddess, avoiding long queues, escorting though the mazes of the temple etc etc. Yeah, moved about bare-chested and did all the “shashtang pranams”. Then I went on to see the Gandhi memorial, the “Bharat Mata” statue. Took a boat to the Vivekananda rock. It was bliss. Looking at both sides the mainland coast from the furthest point (not exactly) evoked some indescribable feelings on day when I think we want to feel bit Indian! I bought Swami Vivekananda’s Chicago speech and set on the steps reading it. It’s a beautiful place, peaceful, the strong wind blowing and the grand views. Atop the adjacent rock, Tamilnadu tourism is building another such memorial for “Tiruvalluvar” and a gigantic statue adorns it.
When I got back to the jetty, I tried to find out about the "medicinal hill". Legend has it that Lord Hanuman carried the “Vindhamadhav parvath” to Lanka, because he didn’t recognize the medicinal plant that was to cure Laxman, after he was stuck down by Indrajeet, Ravana’s son. While Hanuman was carrying the mountain, part of it chipped off and fell somewhere around here and a hill was created. Supposedly there are few caves in the hills where all the “sadhus” stay and it is quite a treacherous trek to the top. The hill is also inhabited by poisonous snakes and insects and it is also supposed to be a medicinal goldmine, which the sadhus can administer. I asked around but none seemed to know about the hill. One person gave some vague direction towards Nagercoil but seemed unconvincing. The tourism department clerk seemed to know none of it (my communication sucked but why would you put someone who doesn't speak english/hindi there?)! I tried calling few of my Tamil friends but none knew about such a place.
(I found out later that it is called “Maruthuvazhmalai” hill and does exist near kanyakumari)
I came back to the hotel and enquired about my bus ticket which I had asked one of the travel agencies to book. I learned that only Tamilnadu state buses were available till Chennai. The thought about spending the night again in the room psyched the hell out of me! The train to Bangalore, Island Express, was leaving in less than 20 mins and all of a sudden, I decided to take it. Took an autorickshaw to the station, but I would not get any reservation, hence was forced to buy a general compartment ticket. It’s a long long journey of 20 hours to Bangalore! All the fatigue seemed to cover me just at the thought of traveling in the unreserved compartment. I got in one of the reserved compartments and found a seat which was meant for someone getting up from Ernakulam, which would only come at 8 pm. It was a long weekend and hoards of people were returning to Bangalore and the train was packed. Soon the usual story of haggling between unrelenting TT and stoic unreserved compartment traveler followed at Trivandrum and beyond. After much pestering, TT took the extra reservation charges and allowed me his seat. No sleeping berth, only a seat to sit on. The benevolent great Indian railways. Later in the night, one railway policeman came and dragged me off my seat, threw my bag onto the floor, and even after showing him the paper which TT had issued to me, refused to allow me my entitled seat, and sat down his fat ass on it and went about snoring. Knowing well that he can easily harass me to no ends, I digested the insult, and sat down at the door. There were many like me, sitting on the floor, and all around. In the morning, when I got down at Bangalore station, just for fun, I told the policeman that I am going to complain to the station master about him, to which he shouted some obscenities to me in Tamil. I gave some back and before he could react, got lost in the crowd.
Wednesday, December 07, 2005
Malabar coast - August 2005 - Alleppey
On 13th August morning, I took the DTPC ferry to Alleppey. I was going there to see the annual Snake boat race, Nehru Cup, held 14th August every year. Collins and Auriley were traveling to Kochi, but got hooked onto the idea and took the same ferry. It takes about 9 hours to reach Alleppey traversing through the rivers and lakes, narrow canals through the beautiful backwaters of Kerala. The route is beautiful and picturesque except for the odd huge ashram building of the hugging guru “Mata Amritanandamayi”! The ferry was over crowded with tourists, French largely. How I wished that I had brought some ear plugs! The cruise was just awesome. Will write in details later with pictures (hopefully!)
Reached Alleppey after dark and took an auto rickshaw to “Palm grove lake resort”. Well, I knew I can’t get fancy with the name. Alleppey was brimming with tourists and a place was hard to get, and although a little more costly than my budget stay, I found the lady extremely nice over phone, who promised to hold the only available bamboo cottage till 6:30 pm! Collin found out that his hotel room is already given away to someone else because of the delay. So I asked him to tag alone in case mine is still available.
The hotel was far away along the river and secluded. The place was awesome and the owners extremely friendly. Owned by a retired lawyer, the place is built over 1 hectare of land. The place is full of trees, coconut and banana groves, couple of artificial tanks to keep fishes/prawns alive, well kept gardens and in the middle a portico sort of a place, with arches and tall columns and open on all sides for guests to sit out, and which also serves as dining area. In the entire spread of land, there are only 2 cottages and 2 bamboo huts, and there is about 200 meters of river line running along! I have the knack of finding the best cheap places to stay I guess! I patted my own back!
Collin and I would share the bamboo hut, which was good for my pocket. Nice big room, with the bath outside under the open sky! There was this huge ‘ancient’ mosquito net, which both of us tried to figure out how to get it open and working!! Too complicated for the modern day wayfarers; we soon gave up and decided on mosquito repellents.
The owners were really nice. Philip Abraham and his wife Mariam run the place like their home. They have other sources of income, so this is more like a hobby for them. They were surprised to see a lone Indian traveler! And even wondered how I found the place out, because only the foreign tourists seem to know about the place! We Indians do not travel as backpackers, our traveling is always planned and thought of, and for a cause – maybe pilgrimage, or visiting relatives or to specific places of interests! Travel means usually with friends and families. Anyway, they were quite happy to see me there, and we talked about a whole lot, mostly about my different traveling experiences. I even told them how Alexander Faber stole my idea of “Chasing the monsoon” Few beers down and Collin went to bed, and I went by the water! I sat by the small jetty and looked around.
It was mesmerizing. All I could see till far off were few twinkling lights of houses by the shores. It was a clear night and plenty of moonlight just right. Absolute silence everywhere and you know what tranquility can be! All you can hear is the sound of the water, small waves breaking out against the jetty in some unexplainable rhythm. I was at peace. I do not know how long I must have lied at the jetty flow looking at the sky spreading out the beautiful sheet of stars above.
Woke up early in the morning listening to birds chirp and with crowing of rooster! How long had it been that way? Set out early morning. Although there are other boat races like Rajiv Gandhi tournament, none captures the festivity as the Nehru snake boat race. Walked up to the DTPC, where people were already lining up for tickets and bought the cheapest gallery ticket for 50 rupees. I knew I would be amongst local crowd there and would enjoy the electricity and feel the enthusiasm the most there.
Near the DTPC office, I met up with an auto rickshaw driver “Shaji”. Shaji too was in festive mood and not keen on earning the extra money on the day, and was more looking to chill! We became quick friends and Shaji took me around to show his city. He was a proud malayali and he loved to show me his city and the streets, temples, the mazes of canals around in the “Venice of the east”, the small beach, and even to a place where Kathakali dance was being performed. He did not know much of English or Hindi, and neither did I know any Malayalam, so the communication was based on keywords (like Yesudas, Mohan Lal, Boatrace, Shalini, Shakila, Todi etc) but that did not stop us from having a good chat! After a lot of loitering around, we ended up in a “Todi” shack. We ordered for couple of “koojas” of coconut Todi, which was absolutely fresh and with amazingly tasty Currymin and Seer fish to go along. I think I had the tastiest food in that shack, maybe the Todi helped! I got to meet some of the regulars there and all of them were extremely happy to see me, and some even bought a few glasses for me. Shaji and I were soon happily high. I filled my mineral water bottles with Todi for the race. Shaji dropped me to the gallery for the race and took leave to go and report to his wife for lunch, munching enough “paan masala” to hide the smell of the Todi, which I thought would be extremely difficult. He gestured with his head tilted and eyes closes and imaginary knife slashing his throat … that he was gonna have a tough time at home.
Getting onto the gallery was a tough job, the gallery although meant for about 200 people, was already filled with more than 500 and still filling up, and getting up onto it following the usual entrance was impossible; I tried climbing from the backside, and in the process lost my slipper which got stuck deep in the mud. No time to look back or hunt for it, I shook off the other slipper, and climbed up the gallery with the help of few happily high well wishers! Up and settled atop the gallery, temporarily built over muck by the banks near the finishing point of the race. The atmosphere was electrifying! Young or old, everyone was drinking, screaming, singing the traditional boat songs! Many came in colorful jerseys, cheering for their supporting teams! Rush of alcohol often flared temperatures; there were a few ‘playful’ fights, especially with the cops trying to pacify and keep the crowd disciplined. I enjoyed every moment while sipping previously bottled Todi! Many came with betting booklets! The man sitting next to me, seemed like a pro knowing all teams, all stakes, and was constantly on his cell phone placing bets, cheering and jeering, exasperating. The boats are of some sights! Imagine a narrow slicker, rowed by more than 100 men, and additional 20 to keep the tempo and the rhythms going by beating drums, holding the colorful batons, umbrellas and waving flags! The banks of the lake were filled up with entire Alleppey population, more affluent ones hiring boats, or getting one of the expensive tickets to watch the race from floating decks and huge boats. The commentary was being played out through the ancient tapered megaphones, excellent commentary presumably, which I could not understand but could feel the vibrancy when the commentator sang the boat songs and thousands others sang along. I wished I had a recorder to catch all the excitement.
Suddenly I heard huge crashing sound and saw that little distance away, one of the gallery stands had given off; It could not bear the force of 1000s jumping crazed out enthusiastic Malayalis. And no, the small accident (where 50 got injured) did not dampen the spirit, the rest of the crowd just climbed on to the nearby galleries.
Race over and I walked back to the peace of my hotel. It had been a fantastic day! All I craved a bit, later in the night was for a guitar and rain! As my luck would have it, my entire Kerala trip, I did not get to see any rain!
Next day, I set out towards south! Towards Trivandrum and further Kanyakumari!
Reached Alleppey after dark and took an auto rickshaw to “Palm grove lake resort”. Well, I knew I can’t get fancy with the name. Alleppey was brimming with tourists and a place was hard to get, and although a little more costly than my budget stay, I found the lady extremely nice over phone, who promised to hold the only available bamboo cottage till 6:30 pm! Collin found out that his hotel room is already given away to someone else because of the delay. So I asked him to tag alone in case mine is still available.
The hotel was far away along the river and secluded. The place was awesome and the owners extremely friendly. Owned by a retired lawyer, the place is built over 1 hectare of land. The place is full of trees, coconut and banana groves, couple of artificial tanks to keep fishes/prawns alive, well kept gardens and in the middle a portico sort of a place, with arches and tall columns and open on all sides for guests to sit out, and which also serves as dining area. In the entire spread of land, there are only 2 cottages and 2 bamboo huts, and there is about 200 meters of river line running along! I have the knack of finding the best cheap places to stay I guess! I patted my own back!
Collin and I would share the bamboo hut, which was good for my pocket. Nice big room, with the bath outside under the open sky! There was this huge ‘ancient’ mosquito net, which both of us tried to figure out how to get it open and working!! Too complicated for the modern day wayfarers; we soon gave up and decided on mosquito repellents.
The owners were really nice. Philip Abraham and his wife Mariam run the place like their home. They have other sources of income, so this is more like a hobby for them. They were surprised to see a lone Indian traveler! And even wondered how I found the place out, because only the foreign tourists seem to know about the place! We Indians do not travel as backpackers, our traveling is always planned and thought of, and for a cause – maybe pilgrimage, or visiting relatives or to specific places of interests! Travel means usually with friends and families. Anyway, they were quite happy to see me there, and we talked about a whole lot, mostly about my different traveling experiences. I even told them how Alexander Faber stole my idea of “Chasing the monsoon” Few beers down and Collin went to bed, and I went by the water! I sat by the small jetty and looked around.
It was mesmerizing. All I could see till far off were few twinkling lights of houses by the shores. It was a clear night and plenty of moonlight just right. Absolute silence everywhere and you know what tranquility can be! All you can hear is the sound of the water, small waves breaking out against the jetty in some unexplainable rhythm. I was at peace. I do not know how long I must have lied at the jetty flow looking at the sky spreading out the beautiful sheet of stars above.
Woke up early in the morning listening to birds chirp and with crowing of rooster! How long had it been that way? Set out early morning. Although there are other boat races like Rajiv Gandhi tournament, none captures the festivity as the Nehru snake boat race. Walked up to the DTPC, where people were already lining up for tickets and bought the cheapest gallery ticket for 50 rupees. I knew I would be amongst local crowd there and would enjoy the electricity and feel the enthusiasm the most there.
Near the DTPC office, I met up with an auto rickshaw driver “Shaji”. Shaji too was in festive mood and not keen on earning the extra money on the day, and was more looking to chill! We became quick friends and Shaji took me around to show his city. He was a proud malayali and he loved to show me his city and the streets, temples, the mazes of canals around in the “Venice of the east”, the small beach, and even to a place where Kathakali dance was being performed. He did not know much of English or Hindi, and neither did I know any Malayalam, so the communication was based on keywords (like Yesudas, Mohan Lal, Boatrace, Shalini, Shakila, Todi etc) but that did not stop us from having a good chat! After a lot of loitering around, we ended up in a “Todi” shack. We ordered for couple of “koojas” of coconut Todi, which was absolutely fresh and with amazingly tasty Currymin and Seer fish to go along. I think I had the tastiest food in that shack, maybe the Todi helped! I got to meet some of the regulars there and all of them were extremely happy to see me, and some even bought a few glasses for me. Shaji and I were soon happily high. I filled my mineral water bottles with Todi for the race. Shaji dropped me to the gallery for the race and took leave to go and report to his wife for lunch, munching enough “paan masala” to hide the smell of the Todi, which I thought would be extremely difficult. He gestured with his head tilted and eyes closes and imaginary knife slashing his throat … that he was gonna have a tough time at home.
Getting onto the gallery was a tough job, the gallery although meant for about 200 people, was already filled with more than 500 and still filling up, and getting up onto it following the usual entrance was impossible; I tried climbing from the backside, and in the process lost my slipper which got stuck deep in the mud. No time to look back or hunt for it, I shook off the other slipper, and climbed up the gallery with the help of few happily high well wishers! Up and settled atop the gallery, temporarily built over muck by the banks near the finishing point of the race. The atmosphere was electrifying! Young or old, everyone was drinking, screaming, singing the traditional boat songs! Many came in colorful jerseys, cheering for their supporting teams! Rush of alcohol often flared temperatures; there were a few ‘playful’ fights, especially with the cops trying to pacify and keep the crowd disciplined. I enjoyed every moment while sipping previously bottled Todi! Many came with betting booklets! The man sitting next to me, seemed like a pro knowing all teams, all stakes, and was constantly on his cell phone placing bets, cheering and jeering, exasperating. The boats are of some sights! Imagine a narrow slicker, rowed by more than 100 men, and additional 20 to keep the tempo and the rhythms going by beating drums, holding the colorful batons, umbrellas and waving flags! The banks of the lake were filled up with entire Alleppey population, more affluent ones hiring boats, or getting one of the expensive tickets to watch the race from floating decks and huge boats. The commentary was being played out through the ancient tapered megaphones, excellent commentary presumably, which I could not understand but could feel the vibrancy when the commentator sang the boat songs and thousands others sang along. I wished I had a recorder to catch all the excitement.
Suddenly I heard huge crashing sound and saw that little distance away, one of the gallery stands had given off; It could not bear the force of 1000s jumping crazed out enthusiastic Malayalis. And no, the small accident (where 50 got injured) did not dampen the spirit, the rest of the crowd just climbed on to the nearby galleries.
Race over and I walked back to the peace of my hotel. It had been a fantastic day! All I craved a bit, later in the night was for a guitar and rain! As my luck would have it, my entire Kerala trip, I did not get to see any rain!
Next day, I set out towards south! Towards Trivandrum and further Kanyakumari!
Malabar coast - August 2005 - Kollam
August 11th 2005 night, I set out for Kerala! I wanted to go and stay close to the water and watch the rain! I had a one way train ticket to Trivundrum! But next day morning, while I was standing at the ajar door of the train, and was looking at the rivers filled till the brim, and the green palms, I could not wait, I just had to get down! I got down at Quilon Junction.
Quilon is more a transit place for people traveling to Alleppey or a place for setting out on the backwater cruises. It is also a major trading place for cashews, and all sorts of spices. It is also one of the most beautiful places in Kerala.
Quilon is officially known as Kollam! In India, the corrective measures for improvement undertaken by the traditionalists are often reflected in renaming a place which reflects the sentiments of the local population!!! I like the name Kollam, but try pronouncing Alappuzha and you will hear the Mallu next to you convulse on the floor in laughter! Well, I can’t possibly roll my tongue inside out or pronounce from down under my guts! Alleppey is good enough for me! Maybe I can try with a “rosogolla” in my mouth!
Following my guide book, I took an “odo” (auto rickshaw) to KTDC Yatri Nivas. It was right next to the lake, about 4 km away from the city. “Ond-ly one room. You are lucky, the booking was cancelled just sometime back”, said the pretty receptionist who was dusky with beautiful dark eyes, a million watt smile and jasmine flowers tied around her hair. The room was the best room of the hotel and since I am a single Indian traveler (??), she gave it to me at 50%! Suited me perfect. The bellhop was straight out of the Malayalam movies; wearing HUGE black goggles (even at night as I found later), checkered shirt over white “mundu”, and with the smooth swagger of Mohan Lal! He showed me the room, which was in the first floor, overlooking the lake, and with a nice balcony with comfortable sofas! Perfect! What else do I need? Ah beer, and rain!
Suggestion: In Kerala, the best place to get beer at cheapest price are the government hotels like KTDC, everywhere else you are likely to shell out 100 Rupees minimum.
With the beer sorted out, all I needed was rain. Kerala is most beautiful in the rainy season. Imagine, sitting by the banks of the lake, watching the rain thundering down on the lake surface! By the way, did you know that it takes only 1.80 Rs per minute to call God from Kerala. Why? Because it’s a local call in his own Country! .. On a wall of the hotel, it was written too, “Welcome to Kerala! Gods own country!”
I went up to the waterfront; the front of the hotel was pretty, with lawns, swings, and a jetty where even paddle-boats were available for the honeymooners! The attendant at the jetty offered me a ride in the official speedboat for 200 rupees. Great!
Across the Ashtamudi Lake, we set out towards the sea. The lines of Chinese fishing nets, the ever lasting palms that are so green, and the warmth in the smile of local people paddling their small canoes – the people around must be one of the happiest in the world. We passed through the fishing boats where the fishermen were tending their nets; they would set out for deep sea in the night. The waterfowls, the kingfishers and the eagles were circling around the fishing boats and I cursed myself for forgetting my binocular. Right at the place where the river meets the sea, I requested to stop the boat to savor the moments. The current was pretty strong there, and big splashes of waves hit me on my face, my camera got soaked but I was not bothered. I just wanted to enjoy the moments. A single fisherman on a tiny canoe was throwing up his net in a bid for a last catch before he returns – straight out of Mani Ratnam movies. Close to sunset; the color of the water was ever changing with the color change of the sky– you could feel the warmth of all the colors there probably. Ah! Heaven is a place on earth!
In the evening, I walked up to the main street in the city! Ah! Just about 400 meters long I would imagine? I had to find a shop to get my camera checked up for any damages.
Back at the hotel later on, at the restaurant, I met a French girl, Auriley. She had come came to India to work with a homeless children project in Calcutta and after completion of her work, she was taking her time traveling through South to Mumbai where from she would take her flight to Paris. She had already been to quite a few places and had quite some stories to tell, especially about Madurai I was amazed to know that she learnt English while she was in Calcutta and reading the travel guides. Her English wasn’t the greatest but she is managing great. Believe me, conversing with the Malayalis is not an easy thing, and even harder is to get used to their accents, if they know English that is.
Soon we met another backpacker, Collin, from South Africa and have been traveling in India for the last 6 months. He was a towering giant yet astonishingly soft spoken, and had plenty of stories to tell. We listened eagerly his traveling stories in Myanmar.
Quilon is more a transit place for people traveling to Alleppey or a place for setting out on the backwater cruises. It is also a major trading place for cashews, and all sorts of spices. It is also one of the most beautiful places in Kerala.
Quilon is officially known as Kollam! In India, the corrective measures for improvement undertaken by the traditionalists are often reflected in renaming a place which reflects the sentiments of the local population!!! I like the name Kollam, but try pronouncing Alappuzha and you will hear the Mallu next to you convulse on the floor in laughter! Well, I can’t possibly roll my tongue inside out or pronounce from down under my guts! Alleppey is good enough for me! Maybe I can try with a “rosogolla” in my mouth!
Following my guide book, I took an “odo” (auto rickshaw) to KTDC Yatri Nivas. It was right next to the lake, about 4 km away from the city. “Ond-ly one room. You are lucky, the booking was cancelled just sometime back”, said the pretty receptionist who was dusky with beautiful dark eyes, a million watt smile and jasmine flowers tied around her hair. The room was the best room of the hotel and since I am a single Indian traveler (??), she gave it to me at 50%! Suited me perfect. The bellhop was straight out of the Malayalam movies; wearing HUGE black goggles (even at night as I found later), checkered shirt over white “mundu”, and with the smooth swagger of Mohan Lal! He showed me the room, which was in the first floor, overlooking the lake, and with a nice balcony with comfortable sofas! Perfect! What else do I need? Ah beer, and rain!
Suggestion: In Kerala, the best place to get beer at cheapest price are the government hotels like KTDC, everywhere else you are likely to shell out 100 Rupees minimum.
With the beer sorted out, all I needed was rain. Kerala is most beautiful in the rainy season. Imagine, sitting by the banks of the lake, watching the rain thundering down on the lake surface! By the way, did you know that it takes only 1.80 Rs per minute to call God from Kerala. Why? Because it’s a local call in his own Country! .. On a wall of the hotel, it was written too, “Welcome to Kerala! Gods own country!”
I went up to the waterfront; the front of the hotel was pretty, with lawns, swings, and a jetty where even paddle-boats were available for the honeymooners! The attendant at the jetty offered me a ride in the official speedboat for 200 rupees. Great!
Across the Ashtamudi Lake, we set out towards the sea. The lines of Chinese fishing nets, the ever lasting palms that are so green, and the warmth in the smile of local people paddling their small canoes – the people around must be one of the happiest in the world. We passed through the fishing boats where the fishermen were tending their nets; they would set out for deep sea in the night. The waterfowls, the kingfishers and the eagles were circling around the fishing boats and I cursed myself for forgetting my binocular. Right at the place where the river meets the sea, I requested to stop the boat to savor the moments. The current was pretty strong there, and big splashes of waves hit me on my face, my camera got soaked but I was not bothered. I just wanted to enjoy the moments. A single fisherman on a tiny canoe was throwing up his net in a bid for a last catch before he returns – straight out of Mani Ratnam movies. Close to sunset; the color of the water was ever changing with the color change of the sky– you could feel the warmth of all the colors there probably. Ah! Heaven is a place on earth!
In the evening, I walked up to the main street in the city! Ah! Just about 400 meters long I would imagine? I had to find a shop to get my camera checked up for any damages.
Back at the hotel later on, at the restaurant, I met a French girl, Auriley. She had come came to India to work with a homeless children project in Calcutta and after completion of her work, she was taking her time traveling through South to Mumbai where from she would take her flight to Paris. She had already been to quite a few places and had quite some stories to tell, especially about Madurai I was amazed to know that she learnt English while she was in Calcutta and reading the travel guides. Her English wasn’t the greatest but she is managing great. Believe me, conversing with the Malayalis is not an easy thing, and even harder is to get used to their accents, if they know English that is.
Soon we met another backpacker, Collin, from South Africa and have been traveling in India for the last 6 months. He was a towering giant yet astonishingly soft spoken, and had plenty of stories to tell. We listened eagerly his traveling stories in Myanmar.
Tuesday, November 29, 2005
The Road Goes Ever On
Been thinking about creating a Travelogue! And No! I was not inspired by JRR Tolkien's famous poem while choosing the name for the blog! ..
However ..
till round the corner there may wait
A new road or a secret gate,
And though I oft have passed them by,
A day will come at last when I
Shall take the hidden paths that run
West of the Moon, East of the Sun.
...
:D
btw, look up for lyrics of Nattvindens Grat's song of the title above on google.
The idea behind creating this blog was to serve this an archive for my travel scribblings. While travelling, I keep writing down, whole lotta things, in a small diary. They are often disjointed scribblings on arbitary things, descriptions, or remarks on things I have seen/heard etc. Without any real format! Sometimes absolutely illogical train of thoughts or punctuated lines or disconnected paragraphs! Sometimes I think I should give them certain shapes, do the 'fill-in-the-blanks', edit/add, keep updating onto the net, .. its just too much of work! Heres a try though!
However ..
till round the corner there may wait
A new road or a secret gate,
And though I oft have passed them by,
A day will come at last when I
Shall take the hidden paths that run
West of the Moon, East of the Sun.
...
:D
btw, look up for lyrics of Nattvindens Grat's song of the title above on google.
The idea behind creating this blog was to serve this an archive for my travel scribblings. While travelling, I keep writing down, whole lotta things, in a small diary. They are often disjointed scribblings on arbitary things, descriptions, or remarks on things I have seen/heard etc. Without any real format! Sometimes absolutely illogical train of thoughts or punctuated lines or disconnected paragraphs! Sometimes I think I should give them certain shapes, do the 'fill-in-the-blanks', edit/add, keep updating onto the net, .. its just too much of work! Heres a try though!
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